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Arthur de soultrait wikifeet

Gastinne Renette Back in the Hunt

PARIS — A pair of crossed dueling pistols form the logo of a new men’s and women’s apparel line, Gastinne Renette by Vicomte A., which was presented to a piercing chorus of bugles at Paris’ Hunting and Nature Museum earlier this week.

 

Vicomte A. founder Arthur de Soultrait, whose main line focuses on casual polo-inspired sportswear, recently acquired the defunct historic gunsmith brand, which was once the official gunsmith to the court of Napoleon III, with a view to relaunching the brand as a heritage clothing line geared to attract a broader clientele. Gastinne Renette will turn 200 next year. A keen hunter, de Soultrait said the new country-flavored Gastinne Renette line features the kinds of pieces he and his friends could wear on a typical weekend spent hunting at his country retreat in Burgundy, but hopes the new collection, which will be released each winter, could also speak to a more mature client. “There’s a strong demand for authentic, heritage brands right now,” he said.

 

Using Italian and British fabrics, the new collection melds urban cuts and pops of color with old-school fabrics in an earthy palette.

 

“Hunting wear has the reputation for being a bit fuddy-duddy, so we wanted to do something a bit more playful,” said Bertrand Boll, who co-designs the line. Highlights include tailored tweed jackets with asymmetric suede shoulder patches, colorful corduroys, a cropped trench in black watch waxed cotton, and denim.

 

Knits and shirts carry toggles and buttons made from horn, mother-of-pearl and leather. A full accessories line includes cashmere-lined leather gloves, ties, bow ties, belts and scarves. Prices range from about 100 euros, or about $130 at current exchange rates, for a polo shirt to 650 euros, or $860, for a trench.

 

Vicomte A. expects to post sales of roughly 13 million euros, or $18 million, in 2011, up from 11 million euros, or $15 million, in 2010, according to de Soultrait. Men’s wear generates around 70 percent of sales, and women’s wear 30 percent.

 

The brand sells to about 400 doors worldwide and has two stand-alone stores, in Paris and Palm Beach. Twenty-three stores, based mainly in France, have been opened with partners. New stores are slated to open in Stockholm and Toulouse, France, this month.

 

Vicomte A. is expanding into a market that already has major players in the form of British companies Holland & Holland, backed by the Wertheimer family that owns Chanel, and Purdey & Sons, which is owned by Richemont. Both of those English brands have built up significant lifestyle businesses over the years on the backs of their gun-making operations.


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